Amber and I trekked it miles and miles, like everyday here but we hit all the major station points of the Pilgrim journey in one day. We walked over 25,000 steps on this day. There's that damned FitBit again. Like my hips, it doesn't ever fail to remind me of the pain. On this particular journey though, everyone thought we were French. I'm liking that I think. When we return to the States, I'll start smoking and replying to everything with "Oui." I already speak out of my nose and watch obscure cerebral cinema at least. It must mean we can pass for stylish, cosmopolitan types. Except the catcalls. I could do without the catcalls. Alright, I like the catcalls.
We stopped at the lookout on the Palestinian side and of course have had plenty of chances to overlook the Israeli side. Upon visual comparison, the Israeli side has grass and is clearly more abundant with resources and development. FYI the Israelis use a spring from the Palestinian side for water. Upon hearing several personal and historic accounts, it's clear to me that Israel keeps Palestine under it's thumb both economically and literally, by denying employment and basic daily access to things like say, water. All of this after staking claim to the State of Israel, settling to find a way home where Jews can escape persecution and violence isn't tolerated. It's so incredibly complicated, making my heart hurt. Ironically enough, Amber recounted a passage in the bible after Jesus enters Jerusalem through the Golden Gate.
"As he came near and saw the city, he wept over it, saying, ‘If you, even you, had only recognized on this day the things that make for peace! But now they are hidden from your eyes. 43 Indeed, the days will come upon you, when your enemies will set up ramparts around you and surround you, and hem you in on every side. They will crush you to the ground, you and your children within you, and they will not leave within you one stone upon another; because you did not recognize the time of your visitation from God.’
This passage hasn't left my mind while considering this conflict. I have pondered that maybe the "enemies" Jesus might have meant could just have easily meant ourselves.
Funny enough we started by walking along the fence of Jerusalem in the Arab Neighborhood, overlooking Palestine and easily making out the 25 foot "Security Wall," first to the "Pater Noster" an old church where Christ taught the Lord's Prayer down to the "Chapel of the Ascension." Jesus is believed to have ascended to heaven 40 days after his resurrectuon on this spot because it is the highest spot on the Mount of Olives. We trekked down the road by the oldest cemetery in the world to the garden of Gethsemane and accompanying church called "Dominos Flavit," or "Jesus Wept." It was an absolutely gorgeous church with blue ceilings and the night sky indicated in gilded stars. The Garden of Gethsemane was perhaps the most moving thing on this trip yet. After a long while of consideration, we walked down a huge hill then up to the old city and landed in the "Church of the Holy Sepulcher" after having seen the "Wester Wall." The "Church of the Holy Sepulcher" is where Jesus was supposedly crucified and entombed before his resurrection. The "Western Wall" of course is the last remains of the Second Jewish Temple, the place most sacred to pray for Jews. We of course were separated from men both in entrance and in locations of prayer. Amber and I both approached the wall, with Amber touching it. I walked backward never turning my back to the wall in the tradition while Amber walked forward. We both took different customs and I'm sure vastly different things from the experience. I felt like an interloper.
Ok, that was a lot. I'm exhausted just writing that. I had to open my notes app and see what we all did in that day. It was crazy. All of these "supposed spots" where this and that may or may not have happened. It's difficult to keep track of, to know when something was built and which institution or monarch decided this was indeed the holiest space. It's odd being a biblical tourist. Amber asks me about my faith and with hesitation I admit to so much doubt, so much worry that I don't possess the need to understand and to belong to a defined structure. But being in this place, it is absolutely undebatable that Jesus lived, taught and was crucified HERE, where I sit typing this out. I drink from water that may have touched his lips. I walk on stones he may have touched. I stumble into these spaces and see this "supposed stone" that Jesus fell onto or "ascended from" and watch pilgrims prostrate themselves in humble deference touching their hands, foreheads or mouths to these shrines. It is intense and surreal and wonderfully beautiful.
What do I think? To me, I don't care if this indeed was the spot. It's the teachings that matter most to me. If a shrine gives someone hope in humanity and in God's grace then it has done a wonderful thing. I won't go into details about these spaces, I think it's important to view for one's self, faithful or not. To actively see and traverse the most holy of places in the world, where three major world religions both converge and collide has been pivotal for me. I'm still processing all of it. I'm happy to wait for resolution, just like everything else, I'll wait.
No comments:
Post a Comment